(91-92) Scents of creme de cassis, chocolate, and nutmeg entice from the glass of Liger-Belair’s 2011 Moulin-a-Vent La Roche, though the torrefactive aspect here is no doubt prompted in large part by the wine’s low-sulfur condition in tank. Iodine and stone, marrow, and dark berry concentrate inform an impressively persistent finish. I suspect this will perform well at least through 2018. - DS

There is a note of herbal tea to the moderately high-toned red and dark gamay fruit nose that is amply cut with earth and pepper nuances. The big-bodied, robust and muscular flavors coat the palate with dry extract before culminating in an ever-so-mildly warm and still moderately tannic finale that delivers both fine depth and length. This is still on the way up but it's not so far away from its peak that it couldn't be enjoyed now with 30 minutes or so of aeration.