An exceptionally well-crafted wine, it may not bear a vineyard-designation, but it does boast exemplary balance and plenty of ripe apple fruitiness to go with the ever-present oaky richness that fills out its fairly generous aromas and flavors. Medium-full in body and invitingly supple at entry with plenty of bright energy to its latter palate and finish, this is the one to drink now while waiting for its siblings to come around.

The 2011 Chardonnay Russian River is a blend from some of the finest Sonoma vineyards, including Ritchie, Lorenzo, Hyde, DuMol and Heintz. Largely made from the Old Wente clone of Chardonnay blended with some of the Mt. Eden clone, it was barrel-fermented and aged 14 months on its lees with no lees stirring and only about 30% new French oak used. A light green/straw color is followed by terrific aromas of white peaches, pineapples, brioche, and a hint of creme brulee. Full-bodied with beautiful purity and texture, it is the equal of any Chardonnay selling for twice the price. It should drink well for 5+ years. - Robert Parker