As it was from cask last year this remains quite closed but aggressive swirling liberates ripe aromas of sea breeze, pear, lemon rind, oyster shell and mineral reduction plus an abundance of typical floral scents. The large-scaled flavors are overtly powerful and impressively concentrated as there is plenty of palate staining dry extract that also buffers the very firm acidity that supports and shapes the gorgeously precise finish. This explosively long effort possesses exquisite balance and the tightly wound flavors are going to need at least 5 to 7 years of bottle age to really flesh out and blossom. This is also a knock-out.

The Fevre 2011 Les Clos represents another vivid contrast with a corresponding 2012. The intensity of attack and grip of the latter are replaced here by mineral and herbal complexity that sneak up on your nose and a palate notable for its delicacy, transparency and lift. True, you could say that this is looser than the 2012, but that’s a judgment relative to a rather extreme exemplar of the latter vintage. Harmonious ripeness of white peach and citrus is shot-through with saliva-inducing oyster liqueur, incorporating shimmering suggestions of things saline, alkaline, seaweed-like and stony. - David Schildknecht

Aged 12-15 months on fine lees in barrel. The best of the Fèvre grands crus but not obviously grand. The Laroche premier crus were more impressive on the whole. There is more depth and concentration, within the slim Chablis model, and good persistence. 17/20 (JH)

Scents of butterscotch and bosky autumn apples lend this wine some early maturity. It’s airy and elegant, a relatively soft grand cru. Scott Carney, MS, compared it to the smooth surface of still water: “You can sense there’s depth, that the softness hides power.”