(BH91-94 points) An exceptionally fresh and completely classic Clos du Roi nose of animale-inflected dark berry fruit, earth, spice and mineral scents. There is an excellent sense of underlying tension to the intensely mineral-driven big-bodied flavors that possess strikingly good power, all wrapped in an overtly austere and seriously long finish. This is very Corton and quite robust without being especially rustic.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. This 2011 Corton Clos du Roi errs to the more modern style of Corton, although it is well crafted with strawberry pastilles, raspberry preserve, hints of marmalade and undergrowth. There is something quite stern and aloof about the nose, although that is an attractive trait. The palate is medium-bodied with thick-set tannins, plenty of concentration with a tightly coiled ball of raspberry, black cherry and mulberry fruit. The finish is reserved, distant and perhaps a little charmless compared to the Clos du Roi from La Pousse d’Or, although it has the substance to age well. - Neal Martin