Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes 2011 from Michel Lafarge has a detailed, precise and mineral bouquet that is focused and sophisticated. Here the terroir really shows through with a sense of transparency and the whole bunch ferment is obvious. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp and slightly chalky tannins. This still feels quite tight with a rather foursquare finish, but it has some class and its reserved personality is appealing. - Neal Martin