(BH88-90 points) A reticent, cool and admirably pure nose of red currant, anise, warm earth and a hint of smoked tea is followed by beautifully well-detailed and attractively energetic middle weight flavors that possess a silky mid-palate yet immediately tighten up on the firm but not hard finish. There is fine depth, length and balance here and this should reward up to a decade of cellar time.