Here too the oak regimen is more than simply evident though it stops short of dominating the black cherry, spiced plum, violet and earth suffused nose. The flavor profile is slightly finer than that of the more muscular Champans with excellent definition and verve if not quite the same mid-palate concentration. There is stunningly good length and faultless balance and overall, this is a combination of finesse, focused power and excellent complexity. As is the case with the Champans the underlying material is such that this should have no problem absorbing the wood.

Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. The Volnay les Santenots 1er Cru 2011 from Henri Boillot has a very composed bouquet with well-defined strawberry and raspberry fruit, intermingling with tertiary, woodland scents. This feels natural and composed. The palate is sweet and supple on the entry with fleshy red fruit, impressive depth and well-judged acidity. There is also fine backbone here and a beautifully composed finish full of finesse. Excellent. - Neal Martin