Musk and brown spices, candied orange rind and glazed pineapple lend the Eymael’s 2011 Erdener Pralat Riesling Auslese a decidedly exotic as well as overripe aura, though he claims there was only a little botrytis here despite late-October picking. Sappy and prominently sweet, this finishes with impressive tenacity if neither lift nor sheer refreshment. I suspect it will benefit from losing some baby fat over the coming decade or so and perform well through at least 2025. - David Schildknecht