Tasted blind at the Sauternes 2011 horizontal tasting. Of all the 2011 Sauternes tasted blind, the Château de Malle 2011 is the most taciturn on the nose, the aromatics refusing to come out and play. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity, tensile in the mouth with vibrant citrus fruit neatly counterbalancing the rich, honeyed texture. This is linear and focused, taut in the mouth, a Sauternes determined to be in there for the long-haul and not give too much away in its youth. Cellar this and you will be rewarded. - Neal Martin

Laced with acidity, this is a complex, structured wine with great freshness as well as a dry core of botrytis. It has a rich potential, closed at the moment but holding dense texture and balance between lemon and honey. Drink from 2019.

Lovely creamed pineapple, coconut milk and sweetened butter notes glide along, laced with a twinge of dried apricot that lends a textural hint to the rather flattering finish. Pure and expressive. Drink now through 2026. — J.M.