Like the nearby Turmberg, this site is mostly phyllite, a metamorphic rock that falls between slate and schist. Here, however, the impression is ripe and sunny, the pear flavor as smooth and rich as custard. Minerality turns the flavors toward more herbal registers in the end, tight and mouthwatering.

The Weil 2011 Kiedricher Grafenberg Riesling Erstes Gewachs delivers a juicy matrix of white peach and yellow plum garlanded in buddleia and heliotrope; spiked with lemon juice; and suffused with sea water. Richer and more substantial than its non-Erstes Gewachs counterpart as well as more pronouncedly piquant in its evocation of peach kernel and citrus pit, it finishes with forceful if slightly austere penetration. I would anticipate serving this through 2018, but I need to be convinced that the longer-term prognosis of its author is reasonable. As with other recent Weil collections, it would be especially interesting to be able to compare the evolution of two different dry Grafenberg bottlings. - David Schildknecht

This dry Riseling is richly mouthfilling and intensely mineral, with delicate stone-fruit flavors that mingle with notes of wax and orange rind. It's lush and full bodied, but balanced with tart lemon acidity and a drying astringency on the finish.