A ripe, macerated version, displaying plum, cherry, tobacco, earth and spice flavors. A beam of lively acidity in the middle elevates this. Ends with elegance, supporting tannins and fine length. Best from 2022 through 2036. From Italy. — B.S.

The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a beautifully saturated expression, with gorgeous density and presence. The bouquet is carefully considered in terms of its power and intensity (remember, this was a hot and dry vintage, and ripening was accelerated as a result). It shows lots of varietal character and definition without ever going overboard or feeling too soft or ripe. In fact, this Riserva is surprisingly tonic and firm deep down. It sweeps over the palate with sweet, plush and softly velvety waves of fruity flavors. - Monica Larner

The 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is dark and spicy in the glass, with a burst of exotic citrus that mellows into a mix of ripe cherries, plums and hints of curry leaf. This is elegant, with dense textural fruits and minerals that add grip through a steady saturation over time. It’s still strapping with fine tannins that create a classically dry feeling, yet allowing nuances of black currant, licorice and purple-tinged inner florals to linger. The 2012 is slowly working its way to maturation, and it will be years before it’s at its peak. That said, this radiant beauty will be worth waiting for. The blend of vineyards that formed the Riserva included 80% of fruit from Vigna Vecchia Mercantale and 20% from Casaccia. -- Eric Guido

Classically styled wine with a spicy and cedary nose as well as dried flowers and a little orange zest. The palate has a very smoothly rendered tannin bed and bright, succulent flavors of dried dark cherries. Pretty structure and depth. Try from 2022.