Buttered sourdough toast and a slight nuttiness kick off another excellent Chardonnay from the ever-reliable Talley. The palate is greeted with minerality that fades into an apple butter flavor alongside a pinch of cinnamon, culminating in a graceful vanilla finish.

Another classy Chardonnay, Talley’s 2012 Chardonnay Estate Arroyo Grande Valley (10 months in 15% new French oak) gives up notions of lychee, citrus blossom, spice and brioche, with additional minerality developing with time in the glass. Medium-bodied, pure, chiseled and focused, drink it over the coming 2-4 years. - Jeb Dunnuck

Both of the Talley bottlings in this month's survey tend to firmness to the point of being a bit taut and angular, but, even if not a broadly outgoing wine, this one earns the nod as our pick for its fine complement of brisk, green-apple fruit. It will make a good foil to seafoods in the near term but should relax and become a little less edgy as it smoothes and gains a measure of needed roundness with aging.