0 Immensely inviting, this opens with fragrant pipe tobacco, crushed berry, new leather and pressed violet aromas. On the palate, firm, refined tannins underpin juicy black cherry, raspberry and cinnamon flavors, while orange zest accents and an energizing mineral note lift the finish. It's beautifully balanced with bright acidity and will reward a bit of cellaring. Drink 2020–2032.

Deep, dark, brooding and incredibly rich, the 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva lifts up from the glass. There are depths of rich dark fruits and spices to work through here as it continues to blossom, nuances of candied citrus offsetting leather strap and hints of smoke. It’s silky-smooth and opulent in feel, yet offers bright acidity and tart red and black berries to balance. Inner florals and hints of balsam herbs arch across the palate, above a coating of saline-minerality and slow-building tannins. This tapers off structured yet incredibly long, energized by a flourish of spicy citrus and lasting florality. The 2012 may not be the longest-lived Costanti Riserva, but it will excel over the medium term and is just short of entering a beautiful drinking window. -- Eric Guido