The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons, which comes from 1.35 hectares of vine, has a flinty nose that is very direct, perhaps with a little more focus than the Sechet. The palate is quite powerful, rounded in the mouth with delicate touches of orange zest and dried quince. There is more volume and richness here than the Sechet and the finish is silky smooth and harmonious, concluding what is just a really lovely Vaillons. Drink now-2022. - Neal Martin

A cool, pure and restrained nose only grudgingly reveals its layered combination of citrus, floral, lemon zest, pepper and iodine-inflected aromas. There is a really lovely sense of underlying tension to the impressively intense and markedly saline flavors that deliver excellent persistence on the mouth coating, clean and markedly dry finish. This attractive effort should drink well early as there is plenty of extract, though reward extended cellaring as well.