A complex if distinctly reserved nose is comprised by green fruit, citrus rind, sea shore and iodine scents. There is excellent concentration to the intense flavors that are at once fleshy yet delineated and are followed by a notably saline-infused finish that delivers excellent length. This balanced, intense and ageworthy effort should reward up to a decade of cellar time, perhaps even a bit more.

The 2012 Chablis 1er Cru la Forest from Vincent Dauvissat has a lovely nose, a little more tropical than I remember it, with touches of guava and pineapple infusing the citrus fruit, subtle marine influences developing with aeration in the glass. The palate is fresh on the entry with a nice touch of bitter lemon, moderate weight in the mouth with a honeyed seam emerging toward the finish. It takes a little time to enter its stride, but it is certainly worth the wait. - Neal Martin