The 2012 Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Les Nogers goes from strength to strength, unfurling in the glass with scents of preserved lemon, walnut oil, dried white flowers, iodine and toasted bread. Full-bodied, vinous and textural, with an enveloping core of fruit, superb concentration and bright girdling acids, this is a brilliant Champagne that meets the high expectations I formed of it several years ago. - William Kelley