The 2012 Sancerre Géneration Dix-Neuf is an extraordinary Sancerre from 100-year-old vines on calcareous marl soils matured on the fine lees in conical wooden vats for 12 months. It needs, like all wines from this producer, some hours to open up its multi-layered bouquet of ripe, almost tropical fruit aromas (mango, plums, rockmelon), which reveals not just purity but also nutty and mineral flavors of almonds, limes, white fruits, brown bread and farina. The depth, complexity and concentration of the aromas is quite unique and so is the palate. This is most of all a very rich, well-balanced and elegant concentrate of Sancerre with an amazing freshness, length and salinity. The lingering juiciness is voluptuous, but at the same time firmly structured, vibrant and very mineral–so very serious and far away from this modern sexiness in wine that’s more often than not superficial and, finally, boring. Already accessible, you can also store this delicious wine for eight years or almost a decade. - Stephan Reinhardt