This has what all of the best 2012s have, which is to say a brilliant texture. To be clear, it’s not about density per se though that is part of it. Rather it’s the way that the density interacts with the acidity such that the flavors deliver both richness and delineation, provided of course that the proper serving temperature is respected because if not the same beguiling texture just becomes heavy. The nose offers up the telltale Ramonet hint of mint along with lovely floral and spice nuances to the mostly white orchard fruit and lemon skin scents that are trimmed in just enough wood to notice. There is fine concentration to the vibrant, cool and ultra-pure medium-bodied flavors that possess that beguiling texture, all wrapped in a palate coating and strikingly long finish. The other seriously impressive aspect to this wine is that even though it will certainly reward at least 8 to 10 years of cellaring (and very likely more), it can be enjoyed now thanks to all of the acid-buffering dry extract. This is not a completely perfect wine as there is a hint of warmth that becomes more apparent if the serving temperature rises, but if that’s the worst that can be said, that is already quite a compliment because few wines cannot be faulted in some way if one is really being picky. In sum, this is quite simply terrific. 2020+

The 2012 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru from Ramonet is already quite accessible, offering up an attractive bouquet of apple, white peach, pastry cream, spring flowers and oak vanillin, followed by a typically glossy, expansive palate impression. I have some reservations, however, about how open knit the wine is on the palate, and a firmer core and more acidic cut to balance this wine's generous body would auger better for the long haul. As it is, this is a Bienvenues to approach in the near term, and I plan to follow that advice with my remaining bottles. - William Kelley