There is a background application of wood that frames the riper and borderline exotic yellow orchard fruit nose that is intensely spicy. In the same fashion as the Bougros this is a big and overtly muscular wine though there is a more refined mouth feel to the broad-shouldered flavors that terminate in a lemon and softly mineral and explosively long finish. Despite the impressive size and weight 2012 is a relatively refined vintage for this typically strapping wine.

4-6 months on lees in barrels for 60-70% of the wine. More mineral than the Bougros, intense aromas without easily identifiable fruit character – classic Chablis. Creamy and dense and yet still so pure on the palate. Great concentration, precision and length. The best of the Fèvre 2012 Chablis. 18/20 (JH)

Didier Seguier compared the 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir to Vaillon, since it shares a sunny exposure that tends to be the first to flower and is often harvested earlier than the other grand crus to capture the acidity. Picked at 25 hectoliters per hectare it has a wonderful bouquet with scents of apricot, dried honey and minerals, perhaps the sunshine really coming through. The palate is very well-balanced with a slightly honeyed entry. The acidity is well-judged and cuts through the intense and concentrated finish. In my opinion, this is a big step up from the Bougros. Drink 2015-2025+ - NEAL MARTIN