94+ Since Gosset makes a point of commercializing wines only when they deem them ready, the 2012 Grand Millésime Brut will be released at the end of this year, while the 2010 and 2008 continue to wait in the wings. The wine is still quite tightly wound after its recent disgorgement, unfurling in the glass with a youthful bouquet of warm biscuits, apple, lemon and peach that picks up a more pronounced smoky top note as the wine sits in the glass. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, broad and powerful, with a deep and concentrated core, incisive acids and a precise, saline finish. This is a muscular vintage of the Grand Millésime that seems likely to evolve slowly. - WK

Jean-Pierre Mareigner made this wine and bottled it in 2013; Odilon de Varine, who took over as cellarmaster in 2016, disgorged the vintage in 2019. It’s two-to-one chardonnay to pinot noir, though the fruit ripeness of the pinot noir contributes more than its fair share of plum and red-blushed peach to the savory depths of flavor. As it opens, the brisk yellow-apple flavors develop intensity, the pure flavor of fruit picked fresh, the incipient scent of apple blossoms. Tina Vaughn of The Simone described that fruit depth as “musky, delicious, sexy.”

A blend of two-thirds Chardonnay with one-third Pinot Noir, this beautifully balanced wine is poised between richness and intense crispness. Its apple and ripe pear fruits are now softening and beginning to meld into the taut texture. Still a little young, this wine will repay aging. Wait to drink it until 2022. ROGER VOSS

Crisp and minerally up front, this is finely meshed and mouthwatering, lightly chalky in texture and offering flavors of ripe black currant, lemon pith and pastry dough. Floral and spice notes play on the lasting finish. Drink now through 2029. 216 cases imported. — AN