With an intoxicating perfume of rose petals, wet earth and forest floor jumping out of the glass, you know this is a classy and charming Brunello. The palate is intense and long-lasting, unfolding layers of sour red cherry, hawthorn, potpourri and sweet spice. The fine-grained tannins are masculine and well-structured. Aged in French oak barrels for four years, it is already a fine treat but can still evolve further in bottle.

This is the first sample tasted in this historic retrospective. The Il Poggione 2012 Brunello di Montalcino makes for a beautiful surprise and is a fitting preface to the older vintages to follow. The wine reveals nice tannic structure at the back with lots of spice and mature fruit layered over. The quality of the silky tannins stands out especially. There is dark richness and concentration with leather and tobacco. This vintage saw its challenges, mostly due to scorching summer heat and dry winds, but the wine is all pleasure at this point in its drinking evolution. In fact, this is sheer delight. - Monica Larner

93+ Good full red. Medicinal red cherry, raspberry, sweet spices and mint on the fresh, precise nose. Bright and sweet, with a penetrating, austere quality to its flavors of red fruits, minerals and medicinal herbs. Harmonious acidity nicely frames the pure, long, youthfully tight finish. Lovely young Brunello that will repay cellaring. - Ian D'Agata

Ripe plum, tobacco, dark spice and balsamic aromas adorn this invigorating red. Firm and full-bodied, the palate delivers wild cherry, crushed raspberry, star anise and grilled herb flavors with a backbone of youthful, bracing tannins. It's already tempting but give it time to fully come around. Drink 2020–2032.

Shades of leather, spice, tea and iron surround the strawberry and cherry notes in this sleek, energetic red. Firm and tense, with a solid band of tannins lending grip to the finish. Best from 2021 through 2034. 11,000 cases made. –BS