So much red ripe fruit comes to the fore on this Brunello, including dried strawberries and cherries, all served up in combination with plenty of cinnamon and orange rind. Full body, chewy tannin, an explosion of fruit that moves into darker territory and a rich yet in-check finish.

An enticing combination of ripe cherry, almond, iron, beef and leather aromas and flavors, backed by a vibrant structure. This shows fine harmony, remaining on the muscular side, with a long, iron- and tobacco-tinged finish. Best from 2020 through 2034. – BS

Truffle, chopped mint, woodland berry and eucalyptus aromas unfold in the glass. Bright and juicy, the palate evokes succulent red berries, star anise, clove and tobacco, set against a backdrop of firm, polished tannins. Fresh acidity lends balance. Drink 2019–2027.

Tenuta la Fuga's 2012 Brunello di Montalcino offers just the right measure of intensity without going overboard. Aromatically speaking, this is a very generous vintage and you get a big dose of ripe fruit and black cherry on first nose. Spice, tobacco and leather provide for extra richness and density at the rear. The mouthfeel is supple and smooth with good integration throughout. The tannins are neatly folded into the fleshiness of the fruit. You can enjoy this Brunello soon after its release. - Monica Larner