(WA96-98 points) The 2012 Criots-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru is a significant release for Olivier Lamy as it is the first “high density” release, even though that is not stated on the label. His 500-meter square holding of short-pruned goblet vines lie adjacent to Lalou Bize-Leroy’s, someone who Olivier cited as a great influence on his thinking ten years ago when he conceived the project. Naturally, he could not do everything in one fell swoop and therefore he interpolated the old vines planted in 1975 with fledglings over 300-meter square and the remaining 200-meter square five years later. It is only now with the 2012 that both have come “on-line.” It has a very precise, crisp nose with subtle scents of gypsum and flint that unfurl beautifully in the glass, later joined by estuarine hints. It is bridled with astonishing delineation. The palate is clean and very fresh on the entry with perfectly judged acidity and it feels just so endearingly harmonious in the mouth. It is supremely elegant with almond and hazelnut at the front of the mouth and a hint of shaved ginger on the finish that fans out like the Amazon delta. This is just fabulous. - Neal Martin

(BH91-94 points) There are no issues with reduction here as the ripe but fresh nose offers up discreetly exotic aromas of dried yellow orchard fruit aromas, mandarin orange and spice nuances that are trimmed in just enough wood to be perceptible. There is outstanding richness to the imposingly concentrated, rich and powerful big-bodied flavors that ooze dry extract on to the suave and seductively textured finish. This doesn't have the same sense of underlying tension but the extra power and persistence more than make up for it. As vintages for the Lamy Criots typically go the 2012 version should be accessible earlier than usual.