(BH91-93♥ points) Reduction renders the nose impossible to read. The classy and very cool middle weight flavors possess very ripe and already well-integrated tannins as well as an ultra-refined mouth feel on the deep, balanced and gorgeously long finish. As pretty as this is, note well that the firm structure will require at least a decade to resolve and probably more like 12 to 15. Outstanding.

Tasted blind at the annual "Burgfest" tasting in Beaune. The 2012 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Les Cailles from Chevillon has a very attractive nose with pastille-like blackcurrant and dark plum fruit, fine mineralité and tension, the oak very nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with tannins that lightly grip, a little saline in the mouth and with good substance (despite just a patina of reduction.) There is clearly good extraction here, but there is no astringency. It just lacks a little persistence on the finish, eschewing that peacock's tail that would have completed the wine. Maybe that will develop with continued bottle age? - Neal Martin