The 2012 Barolo Ornato is terrific. The Ornato is the most changed wine at Pio Cesare over the last decade, now that the estate has backed off of the nearly black, oak-laden style that was in vogue in the 1990s and early 2000s. There is no shortage of depth or intensity, but the estate captures all of that in a much more classic style these days. A host of dark stone fruit, spice and leather notes flesh out in a deep, intense Barolo endowed with plenty of tannic punch. Far from an easygoing 2012, Pio Cesare's Ornato will require at least a few years in bottle to come into its own. -- Antonio Galloni

The 2012 Barolo Ornato offers a modern approach with allspice and toasted almond in front of dark fruit, blackberry preserves and grilled herb. Lighter touches of tar, smoke and cola appear at the back. Overall, this Barolo is well integrated and seamless in delivery. It makes a great wine to drink within the next ten years. - Monica Larner

Austere initially, this needs air to open, displaying flavors of tar, cherry and spice from the new oak treatment. Firm and linear, with a dense structure that will require some time to integrate fully. Best from 2020 through 2035. 40 cases imported. — BS