An extraordinary dry riesling with a titanically mineral personality. Still so vital, focused and racy, this makes a major statement. Discrete citrus fruit and a mass of wild herb character. Enormous aging potential, in fact it is only just coming into its best mature form. From biodynamically grown grapes with Biodyvin certification. Drink or hold. Tasted at the Zind-Humbrecht Grand Cru Rangen vertical in November 2023. - Stuart Pigott

One of Alsace’s very best producers, Zind Humbrecht owns vines in four superb grand cru vineyards: Hengst, Goldert, Brand and Rangen. Owner and leading biodynamic winemaker Olivier Humbrecht, who was the first French Master of Wine, takes pride in his 5ha walled monopole vineyard of Clos-St-Urbain, which combines exceptional exposition on sleep slopes with unique soil structure of volcanic rock and sedimentary sandstone. Biodynamic winemaking includes extended pressing and abbreviated clarification cycles to retain indigenous yeasts and proteins in the must; the wine spends 18 months on the lees in old barrels. Thierry Meyer: Smoky, earthy and mineral aromas. Dry, complex and mineral palate with some bitterness on the long finish. Still young and quite spritzy but has great character. One to cellar. Marcel Orford-Williams: Austere but with fabulous, gorgeous fruit. Great length and character. Eric Zwiebel MS: Intense, mature, exotic bruised apple and honey blossom. It has a rich, oily texture, high acidity and is well structured.

(96+ points) From 50-year-old vines on sedimentary volcanic rocks that yielded 23 hectoliters per hectare after a severe hailstorm in early August that reduced the crop by 20% to 50%, the 2012 Riesling Clos Saint-Urbain Rangen de Thann is super clear, fresh and deep as well as intense on the refined and spicy nose that is aromatic yet also precise, with salty notes of crushed volcanic rocks. Full-bodied, rich and intense on the palate, this is a deep, very aromatic and fruity as well as enormously mineral and tensioned Clos Saint Urbain that is based on perfectly ripe and healthy fruits. The long and complex finish is nearly dry, tight and savory-mineral. This is a classic and, for Humbrecht, even an "emotional wine." Bottled in February 2014 with 14.1% alcohol and 5.8 grams per liter of residual sugar. Natural cork. Tasted as part of the large Rangen vertical in Wachenheim, Pfalz, in November 2023. - Stephan Reinhardt

Cellar Selection. This is a grandiose wine from the most southerly of Alsace’s grands crus. It is rich, certainly, although in balance without any hint of excess. A complex structure powers the intense fruits and generous ripe yellow and citrus flavors. Concentrated from low yields and old vines, this wine needs to age many years. Don’t touch before 2020.

A bright, lip-smacking white, underscored by zesty minerality, this meshes a powerful structure of acidity and minerality with accessible flavors of peach skin, tangerine peel, plum, wet stone and ground ginger. The long finish resonates with hints of crystallized honey, smoke and stone. Drink now through 2029. 50 cases imported. –AN