Terrific aromas of blackberries, walnuts, spices, bark and mushrooms. Full body, ultra-fine tannins and bright acidity. So beautiful now but be patient. This needs four or five years to come completely together. Wow. What class and precision define this wine. The aromas show such subtle complexity and beauty. Full and tight with a solid core of fruit. Polished tannins to the maximum. Better in 2021.

Cellar Selection. Menthol, pressed rose, iris, woodland berry, chopped mint and a whiff of oak-driven spice take center stage. It's still tight, with youthfully assertive refined tannins but it also boasts layers of red cherry, raspberry compote, cranberry, licorice and vanilla alongside bright acidity. Thanks to its age-worthy structure, you'll need patience for this one. Drink 2028–2048.

Camphor and leather notes introduce this rich red, which transitions to cherry, licorice, spice and tobacco flavors. Firm and intense, with a lingering aftertaste of mineral, licorice and spice. Terrific now, but should be even better with time. Best from 2021 through 2042. 400 cases made. –BS

The 2013 Barolo Bussia Colonnello is the most ethereal and delicate of the Bussia series of wines. Fruit is sourced from a portion of the Bussia vineyard that is located closer to the village of Barolo (one kilometer away) than it is the village of Monforte d'Alba (five kilometers away). The sandy soils found here make for softer and tamer tannins especially when compared to the other parts of Bussia. The bouquet opens to aromas of blue flowers, spice, wild berry, licorice and white truffle. This is a softly nuanced and finessed Barolo made with fruit from 45-year-old vines. - Monica Larner