This is a terrific wine that absolutely stands out in a crowd. The 2013 Barolo Riserva Bussia Cascina Dardi is a studied and careful Nebbiolo that shows delightful intensity, with precision, balance and sharpness, and an equally generous mouthfeel. That clarity of aromas is impressive. You get wild berry, pressed rose, black licorice and polished river stone. This wine ages in oak for 48 months. With only 6,000 bottles made, this wine is worth seeking out.

Brothers Alessandro and Gian Natale farm about 20 acres of vines in Bussia, a large cru that lies primarily in Monforte d’Alba. They make three Barolos from their old-vine plots (up to 65 years of age) in Bussia’s Dardi section, including this Riserva, which ages for five years in large Slavonian casks. It shows Bussia’s characteristic dark tones of black currant and plum, layered with notes of tobacco and tar. The wine’s meaty tannins and savory flavors feel evolved, although a core of cool acidity brightens the finish.