A first whiff of lemon zest immediately sets the tone. More air and swirling then reveals a backdrop of chalk but also the enticing, cloudlike zestiness of lemon meringue pie. The palate comes in on very light feet – on tiptoe, in fact – but rather than mouth-puckering lemon, you get ultra-light, exquisite creaminess that almost has an edge of lemon oil, bedded on soft, gentle autolysis. A picture of elegance and lightness. Disgorged May 2016. (Drink between 2020-2030)

Disgorged in November 2018, Ayala's 2013 Brut Blanc de Blancs offers up an elegant bouquet of lemon oil, English walnuts, crisp yellow apples, linden blossom and hints of praline to come with bottle age. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with racy acids, a delicate mousse and a fine-boned, elegant profile. Concluding with a long and nicely defined finish, this vibrant and intense wine is one of the finest wines Ayala has released for some time. - WK

The 2013 Le Blanc de Blancs from Ayala is 100% Chardonnay sourced from three Grand Cru villages and 2 Premier Cru villages, all on the Côtes des Blancs. It offers a classic Blanc de Blancs nose of crushed citrus and lemon curd as well as notes of white flowers, toasted almonds, and freshly baked bread. Rich, medium-bodied, and beautifully textured on the palate, it shows the cooler, pure, focused style of the vintage yet has terrific depth and length. Count me impressed.

Produced from grand cru and premier cru fruit grown in the Côte des Blancs, this mineral-driven wine is tight and steely, with the texture still masking the potential of the ripe citrus flavors. That means this vintage wine is still young, sure to develop well and will be best to enjoy from 2022. ROGER VOSS

Toast and spice notes enrich the lemon curd, glazed apricot and candied ginger flavors in this racy Champagne, with a fine, lively bead. Well-knit and bright, featuring a minerally finish. Disgorged January 2017. Drink now through 2024. 250 cases imported. — AN