Packed yet backward, with a wall of roasted alder and juniper notes in front of the core of dense blackberry, black currant and fig compote flavors. Loads of singed bay, dark pepper and leather accents course through the finish, showing a long echo of bittersweet cocoa. Best from 2017 through 2027. From France. — J.M.

Tasting like a top flight Pinot Noir, the 2013 Gigondas Le Poste is the most polished, elegant and silky in the lineup. Coming from a terraced vineyard that lies just behind the estate (three of the terraces are planted to red varieties, one terrace is planted to Cinsault). Like all of the single vineyards here, it’s almost all Grenache, was fermented with 100% whole clusters, and aged twelve months in small Burgundy barrels. Offering up notions of black currants, river rock, underbrush and dried Provencal herbs, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a layered, seamless texture and beautifully polished tannin that emerge on the finish. Still relatively backwards and reserved, it needs 2-3 years of cellaring and will drink well for a decade after that. - Jeb Dunnuck