From the south-east corner so all terres rouges. Pungent and concentrated. Lots of ‘minerality’. Masses of bumptious, almost gamey, fruit. Not massive in terms of alcohol but massive in terms of flavour. Great freshness – almost raw red-fruit character. Very fine tannins. Great texture. Real energy. 18.5/20

Deep ruby color. This is more deeply pitched still and even more reserved though aggressive swirling liberates a wonderfully complex array of plum and black raspberry liqueur-like aromas where added breadth is present in the form of spice, earth, pepper, dried flowers and a hint of underbrush. The dense, powerful and broad-shouldered flavors brim with dry extract that imparts a velvety mouth feel to the vibrant finale as well as pushes the very firm core of tannins to the background. This is a big but beautifully well-balanced wine that should amply reward up to 20 years of cellaring. 2028+

Not surprisingly, the 2013 Bonnes-Mares was the most reserved wine in the cellar at the time of my visit, but its ultimate quality was still quite easy to appreciate. The bouquet is a youthful blend of red and black cherries, pomegranate, a beautifully complex base of soil, a touch of nutskin, woodsmoke, lovely spice elements, gamebirds and a suave base of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very transparent for this cru out of the blocks, with a rock solid core of fruit, tangy acids, fine-grained tannins and a very long, youthful and soil-driven finish. An excellent Bonnes-Mares.

The 2013 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a feisty bouquet with cracked black pepper sprinkled over the precocious red and black fruit. There is a sense of vivacity here – generous and exuberant. The palate is sorbet-fresh on the entry with blood orange interwoven through the red fruit, and a controlled spiciness gently wafting through the sappy, blueberry finish. Superb – stylish and intellectual – as I described this Bonnes-Mares from barrel last year. - Neal Martin