A tight skein of lemon, apple and spice is fused to the vibrant structure in this linear white. A bit pinched on the finish for now, but should stretch out nicely with a little time. Indeed, with a few hours of air, this gains in richness, harmony and complexity. Best from 2018 through 2028. — B.S.

(BH90-93 points) This is also attractively pure and airy, indeed this is unusually elegant for the appellation with its slightly more expressive nose of white flower, citrus, pear and light spice hints that is framed by a touch of wood toast. There is fine richness and muscle to the broad-shouldered flavors that possess the usual volume and power of a fine Bâtard though not the same precision of the Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, all wrapped in a lingering and mouth coating finish. Once again, this should be approachable, and enjoyable, young. 2019+

92+ Pale yellow. Restrained aromas of apple, spices and minerals. More obviously stony and youthfully imploded than the Bienvenue, but already conveys captivating delicacy and a light touch to its intense pear and white peach flavors. A real live wire today, but this is also a very refined example of Batard-Montrachet. Should evolve slowly and gracefully; in fact, I may be underrating this wine today.