This is quite floral with plenty of earth and assorted spice elements adding interest to the very fresh mix of green tea and red and dark berry fruit scents. There is outstanding power and concentration to the broad-shouldered flavors that possess a robust mouth feel and ample minerality, all wrapped in a moderately austere and hugely long finish. This is a big, indeed even opulent but balanced wine that is clearly built for longer-term cellaring. 2030+

This is all about finesse, with the racy profile and silky texture setting the stage for cherry, bilberry and mineral flavors. Sleek and well-integrated at this stage, yet with dense, ripe tannins that need to be absorbed. Builds to a long, ethereal aftertaste. Best from 2019 through 2035. From France. — B.S.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru from Christophe Roumier has a ripe redcurrant, kirsch and vanilla-tinged bouquet, high-toned but not volatile, generous if missing some mineralité. The palate is defined by its very smooth texture: seamless and so lithe in the mouth. There is impressive purity here and while you could describe this as "showy" (not an adjective that I often apply to Christophe's wines), that is meant in a positive way. There is the substance to suggest this will age with style -- a sophisticated and thoroughly enjoyable Bonnes-Mares to savor. Tasted September 2016. - Neal Martin