The Vergers is also very good this year from Monsieur Coutoux, jumping from the glass in a slightly more tropical blend of apple, pineapple, lovely minerality, lime zest, a discreet base of vanillin oak and a smoky topnote. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, complex and quite refined, with fine focus and grip, very good soil signature and a long, bouncy finish.

A slightly riper and attractively layered nose features mostly dried yellow orchard fruit scents that include apricot and peach as well as hints of oak. There is impressive volume and excellent mid-palate concentration as the abundant dry extract coats the mouth and imparts a suave texture, all wrapped in a harmonious finish that possesses better depth and length. Good stuff that could be approached young if desired. 2020+

The 2013 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru les Vergers has a more reticent bouquet than the Maltroie at the moment and it demands more coaxing from the glass, but with encouragement there develops lovely passion fruit and apricot scents, unfolding with each swirl. The palate has a pleasant citrus and orange peel entry. It feels a little more backward compared to Niellon’s other 2013s but there is plenty of weight toward the finish, although I hope it develops more tension with time and therefore it deserved two or three years in bottle. - Neal Martin