The 2013 Chevalier-Montrachet from Domaine Niellon is outstanding, which it always seems to be at this estate. The deep, pure and youthfully complex nose delivers a fine blend of pear, apple, crème patissière, a gorgeous base of chalky minerality, orange zest, vanillin oak and a gentle topnote of acacia blossoms. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very suave on the attack, with a rock solid core, great focus and grip and a very long, nascently complex and racy finish. Great juice.

From five and half barrels, the 2013 Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru has a clinical nose with wonderful delineation. It is teasingly aloof at first, distant with faint oyster shell and brine notes, but glimpses only. Then it opens the door ajar with limestone and dewy green apple scents. The palate is extremely well balanced with clearly much higher level of tension than the Premier Crus from Niellon. But it is strict and very linear, long but without the peacock’s tail that will develop with time in bottle. There is almost a Riesling-like poise here, a Chevalier to cellar away while you enjoy the more open Bâtard-Montrachet. Excellent. - Neal Martin

An elegant and wonderfully pure nose combines notes of mineral reduction, acacia blossom, jasmine tea, lilac, lemon-lime and subtle spice hints. There is excellent volume and strikingly good intensity to the overtly mineral-driven and unusually powerful big-bodied flavors that culminate in an explosively long and palate staining finish. This is seriously impressive and should amply reward 10 to 12 years of bottle age and drink well for at least another decade. 2023+

A seashore brininess greets the nose in this lemon cake– and melon-flavored white. Floral and bread dough nuances add interest, while the lively acidity keeps this focused and long on the finish. Best from 2018 through 2028. — B.S.