As is often the case with this wine when it's young it is a good deal less expressive than the BBM as the backward nose only grudgingly gives up aromas of acacia blossom, white peach and mildly exotic apricot and lychee nut nuances that are also trimmed in discreet wood. There is superb richness to the impressively concentrated and opulent broad-shouldered flavors that possess an admirable reserve of dry extract that serves to buffer the firm core of ripe acidity on the hugely powerful and almost painfully intense finale. Like the BBM this is very much built-to-age and is going to require at least a decade to be at its best.

Bright lemon and smoky-oak nose, which quickly develops a touch of smoked bacon. Has some funk from long lees aging, along with a slug of new oak on the full and bold palate, but has the depth and vitality to carry this. Long, powerful and polished finish. Drink or hold.

The 2013 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is open and expressive, offering up a musky bouquet of orange oil, ripe peach, pear, spices, citrus blossom and toasted nuts. Full-bodied, satiny and textural, it's elegantly muscular, with a deep but open core, lively acids and a long, aromatic finish. This is a forward, demonstrative Bâtard from Ramonet that is drinking well in its youth. - William Kelley

Intense and smoky, featuring peach, apricot and lemon flavors inflected with salinity, oyster shell and stone accents. Powerful and dense, presenting an expanding aftertaste of smoke and mineral. Best from 2018 through 2028. — B.S.