A trace of new wood sits atop elegant, pure and airy aromas of spice, rose petal, plum, pomegranate and wet stone. As with the old vines Gevrey there is excellent concentration to the mineral-driven, intense and palate coating flavors where the supporting tannins possess good phenolic maturity, all wrapped in a long and balanced finale. This should age extremely well yet be approachable after only 5 to 7 years.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques has a slightly reduced, quite savory bouquet with menthol notes filtering through the dark berry fruit, some new oak still present. The palate is medium-bodied with thickset, succulent tannin, moderate acidity, a little chewy in the mouth but with pleasing purity towards the finish. This is a full-on Clos Saint Jacques that will need several years in bottle. It's a bit muscular, but that is Sylvie's style, so be prepared to afford this a decade in bottle to get the best from it. Tasted September 2016. - Neal Martin