This is perennially one of my favorite wines and one that I buy virtually every vintage. The 2013 version displays a deft touch of oak that again is sufficiently subtle as to allow the ripe and very fresh white and yellow orchard fruit, sea breeze and iodine scents to shine. There is excellent punch as well as fine detail to the almost aggressively mineral-driven flavors that possess good power but also a lovely sense of refinement on the wonderfully long and impeccably well-balanced finish. Exquisite.

The 2013 Côte de Bouguerots is another really excellent example of the vintage, with far more soil signature than the standard 2013 grand cru. The wine offers up a lovely nose of apple, a touch of grapefruit, lime, complex, almost crystalline minerality (I cannot emphasize how rare this is in Chablis in 2013!), spring flowers and a touch of tarragon in the upper register. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and very long, with an excellent core, lovely focus and grip and great backend energy on the focused and still quite primary finish. Great juice. (Drink between 2018-2035)

Bougros produces rich wines, and this wine comes from the extra-ripe vineyard at the base of the slope. It is generous, giving a weighty character with the flavors plumbing the depths of richness. On top, a beautiful, almost sweet acidity leaves a fresh feeling in the mouth. Drink from 2019.

Fèvre owns 15.39 acres of Bougros, almost half the total cru. They separate out a 5.2-acre parcel on the steepest slope for Clos Bouguerots, using the balance for this grand cru. About 60 percent of the wine ages in older French oak casks (averaging six years of age), which helps point up the savory structure of the wine, reading in pale umami notes of miso. The fruit of the wine is youthfully pale as well, powerful in its delivery of chamomile, dried hay and jasmine scents of white grapes. A mouthwatering young Chablis, this is built to age.

91+ Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Brouilland. The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Cote Bouguerots from William Fevre was majestic just after bottling but here, under blind conditions, perhaps this wine is entering a dumb phase? It has a pretty, detailed bouquet with lime flower, citrus lemon and flint-like scents that gain more vigor in the glass. The palate is clean and crisp on the entry, tightly bound, linear and very strict towards the saline and sultry finish. There is something reticent about this Grand Cru, one that leaves you asking for more when what it really needs is simply more time in bottle. My score reflects its showing now but I expect that to rise in 4-5 years time. Tasted May 2016. - Neal Martin