Stemmy earth and dark, savory pine give in to sautéed mushroom and cinnamon in this lean, soft and delicious estate-grown wine. A tension of acidity buoys a backdrop of wild strawberry and cranberry on the palate, ending with just the right amount of weight and length, succulent to the end.

Joseph Phelps made a significant bet on coastal pinot noir and chardonnay in 1999, stepping outside of Napa to develop 100 acres of vineyards in the fog-cooled hills near Freestone. Those vines now grow a polished and silky pinot, with sunny fruit sweetness that suggests candied cherries. Savory scents of vineyard dust and tea leaves contrast that juicy fruit, while citrusy acidity gives it a toned edge.