Lewis Chardonnays have never been noted for understatement or restraint, and this wide-open offering is no exception, but for all of its bluster, it is an amazingly deep and decidedly serious wine that is far more than a study in excess. It is ripe and fully extracted with layers and layers of ripe apples and sweet spice, and very few wines of such generosity manage to be quite so well-balanced. Like its Napa Valley companion, it will be anathema to those who demand subtlety and nuance above all, but the rest of us will revel in its richness.