A striking, ripe nose of papaya, kumquat and prickly lemon rind allied with intimations of Veltliner-typical yellow split pea sets the tone for a zesty yet lushly mouthfilling performance. Alkaline, peat-like smoky and saline notes emerge in a vibrant finish of energetic cut and veritable sizzle. There is an undeniable sense of severity here on account of sheer phenolic concentration and relatively austere mineral aspects. But give it time. “These were the worst-flowering vines,” reports Bodenstein, adding, “it was downright sad.” He thinks this wine will prove especially long-lived. -- David Schildknecht