Sage, marjoram and white pepper practically assault the nose in a fashion that signals “Pechstein” before it suggests “nobly sweet,” although hints of candied lime and glazed pineapple do anticipate the ennobled, sweet impression that follows on a rich yet buoyant, bright and surprisingly firm palate. Once this wine takes on air, faintly Eszencia-like suggestions of dried apricot, honey and caramel emerge on the nose as well as on the palate, reflecting the quotient of seriously botrytis-shriveled fruit that were incorporated into the selection. Laser-like focus and penetration, salivary gland-capturing salinity, along with vibrant and invigorating impingement of herbs and pepper inform a finish of remarkable reach. - David Schildknecht

Clear, precise and super-ripe stone fruit aromas along with some stony flavors open the 2013 Pechstein Riesling Auslese. With 10 grams of total acidity, the attack on the palate is racy and mineral and, due to its firm and mineral character, the grippy finish of this lingering piquant and salty Auslese tastes drier than it is (118 grams per liter of residual sugar). Like the dry Grand Cru the Pechstein Auslese needs some years to unfold all its talents. Without any doubts a very promising wine. (375ml bottles) - Stephen Reinhardt