Led in the nose by a well-measured mix of mildly gamy spice, juicy, optimally ripe berries and fancy oak, this nicely composed Syrah is polished and pure in its fruit but never lacks for varietal authority. Its deep and very well-focused flavors tend to tighten after a deceptively open start, yet any limits that the wine seems to have are entirely the result of its youth, and there is no doubt at all about its long-term potential. We urge that it be set aside for no fewer than five years and anticipate continuing growth for another five or more after that.

The three Syrahs that DuMOL makes go from a small production of the Jack Robert’s Run (250 cases) to just over 1,000 cases of the Russian River cuvée. The 2013 Syrah Russian River is fermented with about 30% whole clusters and displays notes of bacon fat, charcuterie, ground pepper, blackberry and cassis. A lovely, supple lushness and good purity make for a long, heady, rich Syrah to drink over the next 7-8 years. - Robert M. Parker, Jr.