(JG88-91 points) The Tortochots’ parcel in Lavaux St. Jacques is planted with vines that are more than fifty years of age, and these old vines seem to have provided even a bit more stuffing to carry its equally hefty percentage of new wood. The youthful bouquet offers up scents of red and black cherries, dark soil tones, coffee bean, a bit of grilled meat, woodsmoke and again, plenty of spicy new oak. On the palate the wine is focused, full-bodied and still quite primary, with good balance and depth at the core, with bright, tangy acids, good grip and a long, tannic finish. Again, this wine needs a bit of bottle age to fully integrate its new wood, but the wine has the depth of fruit to do so with some time in the cellar and should prove to be quite good.

The 2013 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St Jacques offers brambly red berry fruit on the nose with touches of woodland/autumn leaf coming through. The palate is nicely balanced with supple tannin, brisk red berry fruit laced with minerals and a pleasant citric note on the bright and lively finish. Sprightly and vivacious, though perhaps not as long-term as its peers, this will still give drinking pleasure over the next 6-8 years. - Neal Martin