This is so young, the yeast of the ferment still swings on the nose. Underneath that, tightly curled freshness suggests both candied lemon slices and lemon sorbet—but this needs time to unfurl its glory. Despite its slenderness, this wine has muscle and tone, structure and poise. The long finish is lip-smacking and moreish. Drink 2018–2025.

The 2013 Riesling Smaragd Loibner Loibenberg offers a spicy, mineral, lovely untamed but still fruity bouquet of small ripe Riesling berries. There is a tension-filled purity and minerality on the palate, which is much wilder and more energetic than I usually connect with this estate. Yes, it's full-bodied, but most of all full of life and energy. A stunning Riesling! - Stephan Reinhardt