Like an intellectual who frequents the gym, the Halenberg manages to strike a perfect balance between finesse and muscle. At first one gets to inhale the usual herbaceous aroma, but in the case of the Halenberg it is already supplemented by the fumy expression of its slatey foundation. The palate too has a gravelly notion, but not to the extent of merciless minerality. A profound expression of fruit is based on local orchards rather than the exotic, and the acidity has been well contained to allow the exhibition of a generous texture. The all-in-one Grosses Gewächs from the Schäfer-Fröhlich estate. 18.5/20 (MS)

Citrus colored, the 2013 Monzinger Halenberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs is very deep, dense and concentrated on the nose with fresh citrus aromas intertwined with herbal and the finest mineral flavors. This is a very elegant wine of salinity, limey freshness and persistent complexity. It is powerful, yes, but not alcoholic. It is still Riesling and the salty length is really wonderful. - Stephan Reinhardt