This is a huge and impressive wine, but somehow graceful and subtle. It packs an eclectic array of brambleberry compote, violet essence, eucalyptus, oyster shell, pure iodine, vanilla, resin, tar, cassis, plum liqueur and hot stones. You can only stand back in awe as one shade of fruit appears after the next and a barrage of tannin coats your mouth. Yet, this is gentle, agile and flowing. Nevertheless, its main attraction remains its unashamed, monumental power and muscularity. A haunting wine that sends chills down your spine. An epoch-defining wine for Veneto that harks back to the legends of the ‘50s and ‘60s. Perhaps the best Amarone ever made. Impossible to resist now, but better in 2022.

The 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva Sergio Zenato is in a beautiful place in its evolution, bursting from the glass with a bouquet of crushed black cherries, plum sauce, cloves and flowery underbrush. This soothes with round and supple textures as depths of red and black fruits saturate, giving way to a tinge of bitterness—all balanced by a core of brisk acidity. The 2013 finishes with amazing length, classically dry and still youthfully tannic, with closing notes of balsamic and fresh mint. Wow. At ten years old, the 2013 remains youthfully poised and full of potential. -- Eric Guido

An inky red, full-bodied and finely knit, layering lightly dusty, supple tannins with notes of black cherry coulis, date fruit, balsamic and iron. Long and silky on the palate, with the tannins emerging to firm the spiced finish. Corvina, Rondinella, Oseleta and Croatina. Drink now through 2028. 1,500 cases made, 100 cases imported. — AN