The well-established Benanti estate produces a wide range of wines, but this single-vineyard red is one of the best. The mostly centenarian vines lie on the northern slopes of Etna. The nose is vibrant and minty, with crunchy raspberry aromas. It’s intense and very concentrated, with robust tannins that don’t obscure the fine texture. Has energy and drive, with very good length.

The 2014 Etna Rosso Rovittello was going through a phase in which it was slightly shut down when I tasted it. This Etna field blend of 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio is fermented in stainless steel with the ambient yeast and aged in large oak casks for 20 months. Fruit comes from a single vineyard on the east side of the volcano at 750 meters above sea level. The vines are planted on their original root stock. This precious wine offers an elegantly slimmed-down mouthfeel with polished tannins and fresh acidity. Wild cherry, licorice, tar and smoke appear on the close. Some 6,000 bottles were made.- ML