This neighbor of Château Cos d'Estournel has produced a firm dry wine in 2014. Dark tannins and spice hint at the finely judged structure. The wine is foursquare and solid, likely to develop well over the medium term. Drink from 2022. ROGER VOSS

Directly over the road from Cos d'Estournel, Cos Labory is owned by Domaines Audoy and is perhaps the most discreet of all 1855 classified estates - a close run thing with Pouget, perhaps. It is run by the three Audoy brothers, one of whom, Bernard, is the current president of the appellation. Quality has improved in recent years, and it deserves more. It sits somewhere in between the lighter styles and the really big, impactful wines in this vintage. There's a lovely juicy quality to the fruit, with a sense of tiptoeing through the palate, dropping its cassis and violet notes as it goes. Really impressive extraction is evident, but tender. A fairly traditional but extremely drinkable wine - there's no need to wait too long, although it will go the distance. 50% new oak. Read more at https://www.decanter.com/wine-reviews/france/bordeaux/chateau-cos-labory-st-estephe-5eme-cru-classe-2014-10460#Ex4yJF6kxbwvKe1d.99

In the running for the most under the radar of all 1855 estates, this showcases the quality of the vintage. You'll find plenty of black fruit, firm tannins that are a little underripe but add backbond to the wine, and have an easy charm. In the Haut Marbuzet school of characterful, enjoyable St Estèphe, with clear ageing potential. 50% new oak, harvest September 25 to October 13.

Showing much better in bottle, than in barrel, this early drinking, medium bodied wine serves up a spicy, dark, red berry centered wine with an earthy, cherry finish. Read more at:https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/wine-tasting-note/?vintage=2014&wine=Chateau%20Cos%20Labory