The balance of cherry, strawberry and sweet spice flavors and dense, dusty tannins leaves a divide that needs time to bridge. Offers the requisite amount of fruit, and the finish persists, with sweetness to offset the tannins. Firm, dense and long, gaining floral notes and a more ethereal profile with air. Best from 2022 through 2040. From Italy. — B.S.

This is the second year in which this wine was made with estate fruit (opposed to purchased fruit). Bruna Giacosa calls the 2014 Barbaresco Rabajà her “little miracle wine.” The Rabajà cru is very close to Asili, but indeed, the two corresponding wines are extremely different in character. This expression offers black fruit intensity, with sharp and classic lines. Rabajà tends to be closed in its younger years and needs extra aging time before it finds its voice. The mouthfeel is dense, brooding and slightly austere at this point. Ten additional years of cellar aging should be considered at a minimum. - Monica Larner